Kodee C is a 2011 TEFL Peru graduate teaching in La Antigua, Guatemala.
"Life of a gringa in Latin America is an interesting one at that. Not only are you dealing with a language barrier and a whole new culture everywhere you go, but you are constantly reminded that you fuel the local economy and, of course, that you are a girl.
The term gringo/gringa is nowadays used to describe any European descendants traveling through Latin America. Although, it started as a word to refer to soldiers of the United States, dressed in green, during the Mexican American war; it has been expanded as a reference to those who are clearly not of Latin descent. The term itself if one that is often shed in a dull light. Foreigners are not always accepted with open arms in and around Latin America.
What is accepted is our pocketbooks. It is quite a feat to see the look of excitement for many locals when a gringo/a walks by. To a lot of people around this part of the world our presence shouts souvenirs, tours, and money. Walking down the street you constantly hear the item they sell repeated at an admirable level. Along with that you often leave the popular areas of towns with your hands stuffed full of brochures for hostels or tours. To one who is visiting a place this is a blessing in disguise. It makes finding everything you need to get the most out of a place quite easy. To an ex-pat or someone spending an extended period of time in a tourist trap it can be a daily overload. Yet, it is worth it most times to see the satisfaction of giving someone a bit of support by buying a bracelet or even picking up a brochure. I recently found out that some of the people who are selling services with brochures are paid for every brochure that makes it into the hand of a tourist. So keep that in mind next time you cross paths with these people, and remember it is your alternative currency bank account that makes it possible for them to feed their families.
Beyond the economic significance of a gringa, there is also the gender significance. Any female who has spent any sort of time in a Latin American country can attest to the fact that the machismo culture makes sure you know that you are a subordinate woman. It is a successful day if you can walk down the street without a whistle or an attempt at seduction. I often wonder why this is a continued trend across Latin America when it clearly doesn’t work to win a girls attention. The only thing it does successfully is the increased level of discomfort, thereby showing their masculinity. I have even heard Latin’s apologize for the behavior of their fellow countrymen. It is nothing to be ashamed of, just something to grow accustomed to. It is an inherent part of their culture that has the power to remind you of where you are and the culture you are surrounded by.
Being a gringa in Latin America has its quirks. Having the perspective of a privileged outsider shows you how rich and honest other cultures are, while simultaneously showing you how truly fortunate you are to be in such a situation."
Kodee C is a 2011 TEFL Peru graduate teaching in La Antigua, Guatemala.
"I seem to have arrived in Antigua at just the right time to embrace and fully experience the festivities of Semana Santa. Some say this is a blessing, some advice you to get out... and fast. I say that a mix of both is quite appropriate. Semana Santa is more than just a tourist stop. It is an event that is so rich in culture, most of us gringos walking around taking pictures of the colorful alfombras can hardly fathom the history and religious relevance behind this event.
A quick 101 about Semana Santa: during the season of lent the town of Antigua decorates itself with a vibrant shade of purple. On the weekends and during passover they have processions throughout the town. This is more than your everyday parade. The people of various churches in Antigua get decked out in what I would call purple shawls, but I’m not sure how accurate that term is. They meander down the streets with massive floats perched on their shoulders, escorted by hundreds of backups to fill in when the weight of the float becomes overbearing. The floats are symbolic of the passion, crucifixion, and resurrection of Christ. Over the 40 days the cross bore by Christ displayed on top of the floats changes to represent another aspect of Christ’s self-sacrifice. Before the floats make their way down the streets the people and churches of the city decorate the cobblestone streets with alfombras. These are beautiful flower and sawdust carpets that draw the eye by their vibrant colors and holy designs.
What we don’t see as regular travelers is the heart and soul about every part of this event. What seems like a miserable responsibility of carrying the float is something that is actually something people of the respective churches work and pay to be able to do. After seeing how miserable a woman looked at the head of a float, and knowing she wanted to be there showed me how significant this event really is. People come from far and wide to see these beautiful processions. To some it is a tourist event, to others it is something that strikes deep into their spirituality and that in itself is quite moving to see.
Along with the bearing of the float, the work and planning put into the alfombras is nearly unmatchable. Days before the processions the markets are full of flowers and people are busy cutting out designs for the detailed carpets. They work under the hot sun to make them perfectly pleasing to the eye. Only to be trampled over by those leading the procession minutes after finishing them. I was lucky enough to be invited to make a mini-gringo carpet, a task in and of itself more difficult than perceived. The ending result of six gringos covering a seven foot diameter was despicable in comparison to the massive alfombra carefully planned and executed by the three Guatemalans right behind us. Yet, it gave us a little light into their culture. These colorful decorations and tedious tasks are things that matter. These are things that show their dedication to Christ and his resurrection, but also show the compassion of their lives. The people of Guatemala love the party that goes along with it, but you can tell that their hearts are in it for an entirely different reason. This is what I find a blessing of my time here in Antigua.
Yet, the curse is that this spiritual event brings in a lot of people making Antigua a very overwhelming place to be. Normally a nice afternoon you can stroll down the street without a care in the world. During Semana Santa you constantly finding yourself excusing yourself as you feel like a fish swimming upstream. This can be fun for a while, but also provides a perfect excuse to get a nice taste of Holy Week and then breaking out to get a taste of what the rest of Guatemala has to offer."
